Ben Creggan, Co. MayoEvery time I drive through the Doo Lough Valley, Ben Creggan stops me. Dozens of trips over the years, and I still can't pass without pulling over. The mountain has a way of wearing its weather that I find endlessly fascinating. On this morning, a band of cloud had settled across the summit like a cap, perfectly level, as if someone had placed it there deliberately. Below the cloud line, a break in the overcast sky threw remarkable golden light across