Mount Errigal, Co. DonegalFive hours of driving for fifteen minutes of light. I'd been watching the forecast for days, waiting for the one thing that matters most at Dunlewy Lough: no wind. You can have the most remarkable sky in the world, but if there's a ripple on that water, you lose half the photograph. I was on the eastern shore well before dawn, fingers already numb. Errigal was just a dark shape against nothing. Then the colour arrived. Faint at first, a warmth