Black Ball Head, Beara, Co. CorkThe road out to Black Ball Head from Allihies makes you question your sat nav, your life choices, and eventually your suspension. It narrows and twists until you're fairly certain you've missed a turn. Then the hedgerows fall away and there's nothing but open Atlantic and a Napoleonic signal tower standing on the edge of a cliff. Built in the early 1800s when a French invasion seemed genuinely imminent, the tower is part of a chain that dots the